The tanning bed is one Y2K trend that no one expected to surface again, but over the past few years, Gen Z has increasingly been sharing their love for (and misinformation about) artificial tans online, bringing the controversial technology back to the mainstream. As of 2023, there were nearly 22,000 tanning salons in operation in the U.S., according to market research company IbisWorld—over 6,000 more than during the tanning bed heyday of the late 2000s.
This trend is confounding, especially considering Gen Z’s noted concern with skin care and aging. “They’re not taking care of their skin, despite having a 15-step skin-care regimen,” says Heather Rogers, MD, a Seattle-based dermatologist.
By now, we’ve long had the hard science to prove that tanning beds are not safe—the same data that led to their steep decline in the 2010s (by nearly 30 percent in just a few years, to be exact). In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer classified all ultraviolet wavelengths—from the sun and artificially produced in tanning beds—as group 1 carcinogens, putting them on a list with the likes of asbestos, plutonium, and tobacco. Since then, Brazil banned tanning beds altogether, joining Iran, which had banned them a year earlier, in 2008. Australia banned tanning salons. And in the U.S., 44 states have restrictions on tanning bed use by minors.
From that point on, between new regulations imposed on the industry (like taxes and stricter marketing guidelines) and an increased public awareness of the risks, tanning beds lost their luster. But that might not be the case anymore.
In 2023, Upper East Side Tan opened its doors in New York City to fill a demand for tanning salons its co-owners had observed in the market. This year, they opened two more locations. Co-owner Win Gruber estimates that between 30 to 40 percent of his clientele is between the ages of 22 and 26, and over 90 percent of them are women. A subscription costs a flat monthly fee of $59.
Entering the salon is a lot like stepping back in time to the year 2000: There’s a front desk operator to help you determine your session length, tanning oils for sale, and, of course, the booths. But today, at this particular salon, you’ll also find high-tech red light therapy beds and spray-tan booths (a noncarcinogenic option). You’ll probably see a few legal notices posted around the studio and be asked to sign a state-mandated waiver.
Though the warnings are there, Gen Z doesn’t seem to take heed—or isn’t hearing them. “I know that with the generation above them, there was a backlash against tanning, and I think it kind of has swung back the other way just a little bit,” says Gruber.
When it comes to Gen Z’s understanding of UV safety, lack of information is a recurring theme. In a survey conducted by the American Academy of Dermatology in 2022, Gen Z’s UV safety knowledge didn’t match up that of older generations. One third of Gen Z received a D grade or lower for correct responses, compared with over half of older adults who got a B or higher. And 28 percent of Gen Z respondents told the AAD that getting a tan was more important to them than protecting themselves against skin cancer.
Doctors are already seeing the results in real time. Dr. Rogers removes skin cancer—which can look like a mole, an abnormal patch of skin, or a growth, bump, or sore—from someone under 40 every week. To her, the survey’s findings show there’s a lot more education that needs to happen. “The data from the survey was pretty upsetting in how much room there is for improvement in educating Gen Z about the risks of [ultraviolet light],” she says. “That gap really seems to not be filled yet.”
The biggest hurdle is social media, according to Dr. Rogers and Jacqueline Watchmaker, MD, a dermatologist at U.S. Dermatology Partners. “There is this wave of misinformation that affects younger teens and Gen Z,” Dr. Watchmaker says. “I definitely have seen some 20-year-olds who come in not only tan, but red-brown—they’re so tan, I call it mahogany.”
And when she tries to talk to them about sun protection, she often gets brushed off.
First, a little background on all things UV rays and tanning beds.
The sun emits three types of ultraviolet radiation: UVA, UVB, and UVC rays. UVA rays are what tan (and age) your skin. They are also more strongly associated with melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, says Dr. Rogers. UVB rays, on the other hand, cause the skin to burn, while UVC rays don’t make it past the earth’s atmosphere (so you don’t need to worry about them!). Tanning beds primarily emit artificial UVA rays.
These days, you can get a tan in a tanning bed in as few as 4 minutes, compared to the 25-plus minute sessions of the past. The updated technology in the new generation of beds emits stronger rays, which also potentially makes them more dangerous, says Dr. Rogers. That’s because the “tan” you see from an afternoon in the sun or from a tanning bed is really just your body producing melanin in response to DNA damage from UV rays. “Being tan means you have sun damage,” says Dr. Rogers.
Yet without UVB rays and their burning effect on your skin, you might be less likely to notice just how much your skin is getting damaged during a tanning session, says Deborah S. Sarnoff, MD, president of The Skin Cancer Foundation. The AAD survey found that 38 percent of Gen Z respondents believe tanning is safe as long as they don’t burn, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.
Beyond the obvious skin damage they cause, there are lots of other health risks associated with tanning beds, ranging from a weakened immune system to skin cancer.
One immediate risk is eye damage, especially if proper eyewear isn’t worn, says Dr. Sarnoff. Not only can UV rays cause cancer in your eyes, but you could also get cataracts or photokeratitis (a.k.a. snow blindness, or a sunburn on your cornea).
UVA rays are also associated with aging, so hopping into a tanning bed as a beauty treatment in your 20s might have the opposite effect by your 30s: Tanning bed users are likely to see signs of premature aging—dry skin, brown spots, freckles, and melasma—almost immediately, including in areas you wouldn’t normally see them, like on your chest or butt. Collagen loss and wrinkles will develop over time too.
These signs of aging are not just a far-off worry for some Gen Z-ers: Nearly one in four AAD survey respondents are already seeing signs of UV damage, and Dr. Rogers and Dr. Sarnoff have noticed this trend in their practices as well.
Of course, the major risk with using tanning beds is skin cancer. In a landmark study, the IARC found that using a tanning bed before the age of 35 increases the risk for melanoma by 75 percent. A later study found that indoor tanning (in other words, artificial UV tanning and tanning beds) increases the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by 58 percent and basal cell carcinoma by 24 percent. Basically, the risks are significant—and entirely avoidable.
Even using a tanning bed once, like before a big event such as a prom or wedding, puts you at risk. “Your skin remembers everything,” Dr. Watchmaker says. “It’s not like when you are pale again, your skin cells forget about the damage that has been done.” A tan fades, but the DNA damage stays.
Nearly a third of Americans believe a tan makes people look better and healthier, according to a 2024 national survey conducted by the Orlando Health Cancer Institute—but the organization also noted that this was “a dangerous beauty standard” that “can lead to risky behavior.”
Then there’s the virality of it all, and the misinformation that is spread by influencers and noninfluencers alike. On social media, people share their tanning hacks, which normalizes the idea of baking under UV rays. “Influencers suddenly have become the new dermatologists, and there’s a lot of misinformation,” says Dr. Sarnoff.
Look no further than Kristin Cavallari’s segment on a (now-deleted) podcast episode, in which she talks about why you don’t need to wear sunscreen, or Tom Brady saying that drinking more water protects him from the sun (a falsehood that 23 percent of people who took the OHCI survey also believe). Or maybe watch influencer Nara Smith make her own sunscreen on TikTok, or Gwyneth Paltrow’s Vogue Beauty Secrets video, where she advises applying sun protection to only certain parts of your face. (Derms say you need to cover your entire face to guard against sun damage.)
There’s also arguably the most influential social media personality ever, Kim Kardashian, stating, “I’m Kim Kardashian; of course I have a tanning bed,” in a TikTok that has 6.2 million likes, something tanning salon owner Win Gruber says reflects a changing attitude toward the industry. “I’m not sure if that’s what caused a bit more interest in the space, but if anything, it speaks to how people are using the service these days,” he says. “I don’t think maybe 5 or 10 years ago she would’ve posted something like that.”
Between the desire to look tan and the lack of information about the dangers of UV, Gen Z is taking a risk they don’t entirely understand, says Dr. Rogers. Online, there’s doubt that sunscreen can actually protect you and that it might actually cause cancer or is more harmful than direct sun exposure, and that eye protection in tanning beds is unnecessary. These things are all untrue, according to MDs. For one, sunscreen does protect you—by creating either a physical barrier that reflects and scatters UV light or a chemical barrier that absorbs it. And eye protection is super important because you can actually get a sunburn—with all of its negative consequences—on your eyes too.
There’s also the idea that the light emitted by tanning beds can treat skin conditions like psoriasis and acne. The reality is more complicated than many social media influencers know, or make it seem. Some forms of light therapy can help treat psoriasis, but doctors use special devices that are more targeted—meaning they use safer wavelengths, like red light—to treat patients. (UV tools that docs use still come with the risk for cancer down the line, which is why many patients opt for other forms of treatment first, like biologic drugs and topicals.) A person with psoriasis should never take it upon themselves to self-treat at a tanning salon, where the beds don’t even use the right wavelength (which is narrow-band UVB) for their condition, adds Dr. Sarnoff.
Tanning beds also won’t give you the same vitamin D boost that a few hours in the sun will, because they emit only a small amount of UVB rays, which is the type of ultraviolet radiation responsible for vitamin D synthesis, says Dr. Sarnoff. If you’re looking for a dose of vitamin D, don’t start at the salon. Instead, invest in some supplements and find diet tweaks that can up your dose.
When it comes to shielding yourself from UV, it’s simple: Don’t use a tanning bed, and wear sunscreen. “I want you to live your life, to have fun, and to have experiences,” Dr. Rogers says. “Lying in a tanning bed is none of that. Go outside, go for a hike, go water-skiing with your friends, spend the day on the boat. Do those things, create those memories, and ideally do them in a way where you’re not baking in the sun.”
Always start with sunscreen, and remember that the best kind is the one you’ll actually apply, says Dr. Sarnoff. (You’ll also want to reapply every two hours if you’re outside.) Finding products you’ll use consistently and experimenting to find your faves can help you stay on track.
Of course, there are some social media–worthy ways to protect yourself from the sun too. Find the hats, glasses, and accessories that make you look and feel good, all while providing adequate shade. “My joke is: If you can afford it, pay for the cabana,” says Dr. Rogers. “You can go and have those luxurious experiences that are very Instagrammable but still be in the shade.”
And if you are someone who wants to be tan, there’s plenty of self-tanner and spray-tan options available that don’t come with skin cancer risks. “Don’t expose your skin to the natural sun or the tanning bed, because there’s no reason for it,” says Dr. Sarnoff.
For those looking for the warmth a tanning bed provides, Dr. Sarnoff recommends heading to a sauna, getting a warm blanket, or taking a warm shower instead. Finding a replacement for a tanning habit really is worth it, and there are so many options today that weren’t there years ago, when the orange-tan look was en vogue and we knew less about skin cancer. “Find the spray tan that agrees with you. Find a cream that works for you, find a bronzer you like, but the solution shouldn’t be cancer-causing,” Dr. Rogers says.
Olivia Luppino is an editorial assistant at Women’s Health where she covers health and fitness. She previously wrote for The Cut, POPSUGAR, and Salon and has written about everything from New York Fashion Week to dating app trends to the United States Women’s National Soccer team (a.k.a. her heroes). When she isn’t writing, Olivia is likely catching up on Bravo shows or running late to barre class.
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